What does a guide actually do on Crib Goch?
Below the first steep rock steps on Crib Goch, there’s a ledge where I often stop my groups. We’re far enough to the side to keep out of the obvious line of anything being dropped from above, and there’s a good view back towards Pen y Pass. People can get a drink and watch the climbers ahead while we have a breather.
I’ve already got quite a lot to think about by then. I’ve watched everyone walk up from the car park and move over the lower scrambling. I know who’s finding their feet quickly and who might need a bit more help on the first steep step. While we’re stopped, I can check that everyone’s warm enough and has actually eaten something before we start the more committing climbing.
That’s fairly typical of how I guide the route. We’ll be having a normal conversation, but I’m also paying attention to what might make the next section easier for each person.
Starting on the smaller bits
There are some slabs and a short gully quite early on the approach where I like to go through a few basics. Sometimes I’m teaching someone to suck eggs and I’ll happily say so, but it gives us a chance to look at the difference between a proper incut foothold and a sloping bit of rock. We can talk about friction while there’s still space to practise without a large drop demanding all their attention.
I’m watching what people do with that advice. Someone might be strong enough to pull up almost anything but make life much easier by using their feet differently. Another person might move very well and only need a bit of time to get comfortable with the exposure.
At the steeper steps, I choose where to stand so I can see what’s happening and help with the particular move. That might mean pointing out a hold they haven’t noticed, demonstrating the sequence or spotting where appropriate. I know those sections well enough that I can often picture the individual holds without being on the mountain, which is a slightly ridiculous amount of detail to have in your head, but it comes in handy.
Keeping everyone together
Before the main ridge, I put people in the order I want them and explain how we’ll move. Someone who needs more support can stay close to me, and I can position a stronger scrambler where that helps the group. We don’t want to discover halfway along that we’ve spread out and I’m separated from the person who needs me.
Other parties are part of the day too. I’m looking for sensible places to pass, watching for bottlenecks and making sure nobody feels pushed into an awkward move because someone behind wants to get through. I carry a rope for emergencies, although I haven’t yet needed to use it for real on Crib Goch. It could just as easily end up being needed by someone outside my own group.
Once we’re beyond the ridge, I’m still watching. There’s more scrambling on Crib y Ddysgl, and tiredness may start showing up in someone’s footwork before they say they’re tired. That’s part of what informs the decision about Lliwedd later on.
With four people, I can get to know how each is doing and respond to what they want from the day. Some are interested in every route choice because they hope to return independently. Others are happy for me to choose the line while they enjoy the climbing. There’s room for both in the same group.
